Thursday, June 23, 2011

Removing some things!

Removed all the strips off walls and around doors

Removed all blinds that were mounted outside window sill area.
Will mount new ones inside window sill area.



Removed plain mirrors from bath walls/will also remove vanity lights.



Removed vinyl coverings on window sill area and found this mess.
I will caulk around all the windows and drywall this area and place
metal corners around all windows.

24 comments:

  1. Curious to see how this goes. In the process of trying to do a few things to ours. Ugh. I hate painting though!

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  2. What do you fill the holes in with after you remove the strips from the walls? We are about to buy a trailer and need to renovate most rooms!

    Please email me :) mmhmmitsmeghan@gmail.com

    xoxo Meghan

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    Replies
    1. According to what I read on Pinterest, you use the mesh drywall tape and run it down the crack, then mud it and sand it.

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    2. I have done this in ours. Prior to doing it I read everything I could find and saw a million different ways to go about it and plenty of sources saying not to do it at all, that we would have to drywall everything instead and even then there would likely be a lot of cracking within a year. Two years ago I did the very worst wall in our house. It was a small wall in the kitchen (the backside of the living room fireplace really. It had strips at the top, bottom, and corners, as well as one horizontal strip running across the center of the wall. The wall was totally uneven, to the point that it looked like it was slouching. Why I started with that one IDK. LOL. Anyway, I primed it with a good paint primer (helps the mud stick to the wall better), ran mesh tape over all of the seams and then mudded the seams as evenly and thinly as possible, once it dried I sanded it and then reprimed and then skimcoated the entire wall in several very thin layers, building the wall up in necessary areas until it was a straight, flush, even wall top to bottom and side to side. I sanded between each coat and primed once again after I sanded the last coat (run a tack cloth over the freshly mudded wall so it doesn't clump in the primer or paint). I painted in a satin finish plain white off the shelf paint. I live in MS so it is very humid and the summers are extremely hot while we have very cold winters. I haven't had a single issue with that wall in the two years since I did it. I do skimcoat all of the walls after taping and mudding the joints even if I'm not trying to even them out just to make the texture even since otherwise the joints with mud will be smooth and the walls will still have that texture that mobile home walls do. Sorry this was so long but this was actually one of my first "projects" when we started working on the house and it was really frustrating so I wanted to pass on what I did and the results I got in case it'll help anyone else. Hope it does! :)

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    3. I used contractor's bonding primer on the wall and the cracks after I removed the strips and before I began mudding and taping. It seems to have held up well so far (about 2 years). The bonding primer also keeps the paint from scratching off the walls. I have to have the house leveled now, and I'm worried about cracking, but we'll see how it goes. Wish me luck!

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    4. What type of trimming did you use for the corners

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  3. Please email me at ksanfor33@gmail.com how do you fill in the strips????!

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    Replies
    1. Drywall mud. Feather over and fill the gap.sand smooth. Paint

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    2. It won't work if you don't put the tape. Mine cracked again when I did that, because mobile homes shift all the time.

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  4. We removed our strips and taped and floated like you would regular drywall.

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  5. We removed our strips and taped and floated like you would regular drywall.

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  6. I did the thing with mud in the gaps but I had two things happen with my 3/8" panels. First of all the panels were applied with cracks above the door and window edges. (This is a no-no when installing sheet rock) So I cracks kept reappearing every few years (I did this in 1993.) Secondly, there was a vinyl layer on the panels that bubbled in spots. If you go with taping joints I would recommend replacing the panels with 1/2" thick sheet rock.

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  7. If I had it to do over, I would use 32" high paneling as wainscoting and then another panel to get to the ceiling. This solves the 9 foot ceiling problem.

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  8. im remodeling my mobile home can i used 1/4 in sheet rock panel over the existing panel using them also to cover the popcorn ceiling

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  11. when u say "mud" do you mean spackle or joint compound or are you talking about the mud used on dry wall?

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